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Standards of the Columbia Rifles
1.0 UNIFORM
GENERAL NOTES: Uniforms should
be appropriately sewn, made of the proper materials, and constructed in
the correct “cut”. Proper stitching is encouraged, as are hand-sewn
button holes. This applies for uniform jackets, pants, vests, shirts,
and drawers.
Civil War uniforms were
provided in a limited number of sizes, so STICK TO THESE REGULATION SIZES.
Avoid the “cookie-cutter soldier” appearance provided by a tailored uniform.
Instead, we want to preserve the “unaltered-just-as-issued” look that was
typical of soldiers in the field.
Do not be afraid to cuff
your trousers or blouse, or to wear “high-water” trousers. If the
issue-size clothing does not fit you perfectly, then it is probably correct.
This is important.
1.1 Headgear
A. Forage Cap: Unless portraying
a unit that was supplied with dress hats, the only acceptable headgear
for formal occasions such as parade, inspection, and guard duty, is the
forage cap. Forage caps shall be of a finely-woven, dark blue (not
navy blue) plain-weave wool with no visible weave. Visors and chinstraps
shall be painted leather. Buttons shall be small “eagle” type.
The cap liner shall be brown or black polished cotton and the cap shall
have a leather or painted cloth sweatband. Of the two basic forage
cap styles, preference should be given to the “Type 1” forage cap, because
the “Type 2” style is over-represented in the hobby. The Type 1 style
has a crescent-shaped, slightly slanting visor and smaller-diameter crown.
Type 2 caps have a rectangular visor that usually lays flat and a larger-diameter
crown. The sides of the brim shall not be curled downward in
the style of modern baseball caps. Trim and Insignia: Members are
discouraged from adding brass ornamentation to their headgear. Brass
harps, Masonic badges, and other insignia (for example, “Excelsior” badges)
are forbidden on any type of clothing, especially hats. Wearing of
brass bugles is strongly discouraged, as there is little evidence that
soldiers in the field wore them. Unless specifically documented otherwise,
the wearing of proper corps badges, regimental numbers, and company letters
is encouraged. If worn, corps badges shall be appropriate for the
scenario portrayed. Plain, unadorned headgear is also acceptable.
[EOG/US pages 176, 182-183]
B. Other Headgear:
Havelocks are not allowed unless documentation supports their use in a
given scenario. Although documentation supporting the wear of straw hats
by Federal soldiers on campaign does exist, it is the Columbia Rifles’
policy that the presence of straw hats (even in small quantities) is detrimental
to the overall “look” that the Rifles are attempting to portray.
Therefore, straw hats are not allowed.
C. Civilian Hats: Appropriate,
period-style civilian slouch hats are permitted on campaign and as otherwise
appropriate for the scenario portrayed. Forage caps were (and still
are) required for formal occasions, such as parade, inspection, and guard
duty. Civilian hats shall be devoid of hat cords. Hats shall
be devoid of insignia; as piece of civilian attire that was “tolerated”,
they were usually free from the regulations that demanded insignia to be
worn on the forage cap. Civilian hats shall have a sewn edge binding,
a silk hat ribbon, and a sweatband of leather or cotton duck. Civilian
hats shall be made of fine wool felt and shall not include metal-trimmed
vents or exhibit a “fuzzy” appearance. “Steamed fedoras”, derbies,
and shapeless hat blanks are forbidden. Acceptable hat colors are
medium to dark gray, medium to dark brown, and black, with black as the
preferred color.
D. U.S. Army Hats: Use of
the U.S. Army regulation hat (a.k.a. “Hardee hat”; note that this is a
non-period term) is permitted when appropriate for the scenario (i.e.,
when portraying a unit that actually wore them). U.S. Army hats will
normally be devoid of brass ornamentation and hat cords. U.S. Army
hats shall be black in color and made of medium-weight felt, with a crown
about 5¾ inches high and a brim 3 to 3¼ inches wide. U.S.
Army hats shall have two lines of stitching as an edge binding and a 3/8-inch
to 5/16-inch wide ribbon hat-band knotted on the left side. The liner
shall include a black or maroon leather sweatband and glazed paper crown
backing.
E. Soft “smoking caps” are
acceptable when soldiers are off-duty if the particular cap and material
is correct for the period.
F. Headgear for Commissioned
Officers: Headgear for officers is at the discretion of the officer and
shall be suitable for the scenario and portrayal. Acceptable headgear
includes: U.S. Army dress hat, civilian hat, forage cap, and kepi.
Hats may be worn with or without embroidered branch insignia. Dress
hats and civilian hats may be worn with or without hat cord. [EOG/US pages
178-179 (kepis), pages 180-181 (forage caps), page 184 (U.S. Army hat),
pages 185-186 (civilian hats)]
1.2 Shirts
A. Federal Issue Shirts:
It is preferred that all members have at least one gray or domet flannel
Federal-issue shirt, as this was the shirt worn by the majority of Federal
soldiers. Federal-issue shirts may be either depot-made or contractor-made.
Domet flannel shirts will have three ½” diameter tin-plated buttons;
one at the neck and one at each cuff; the fabric shall be a cotton warp
and wool weft in an off-white color. Please note that these
shirts were originally supplied in only one size (no kidding). Resist
the temptation to wear an unauthentic ‘custom-size’ issue shirt!
The typical gray wool shirt will have 4 or 5 buttons, with two or three
on a placket front and one on each cuff.
B. Civilian Shirts: Fabrics
must be woven of 100-percent natural fiber. Only period-correct prints
(such as checked prints; note that paisley, no matter how historically
correct, is strongly discouraged) may be worn. [EOG/US page 126]
Fabric may be 100 percent cotton muslin or flannel. Shirts must have
wood, bone, mother-of-pearl, glass, porcelain, or paper-backed tin buttons.
Bone, glass, and porcelain were more common than wood buttons. Buttons
are a conspicuous problem with inaccurate clothing. Antique or properly
made reproduction buttons can be purchased from suppliers on the Vendor
List.
C. Members are encouraged
to avoid using white muslin or linen shirts.
1.3 Uniform Coats and Jackets
A. Fatigue Blouse (“Sack
Coat”) for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers: Required field-wear
is the standard, New York or Schuylkill Depot-issue Federal four-button
fatigue blouse. All jackets should be of indigo (dark blue) wool
flannel material. Wool flannel shall exhibit a visible “wale” in
the fabric and shall be a shade between a medium and dark blue color; the
color shall not be a blackish, “navy” blue that fades to an even more-unacceptable
purple color. Lined or unlined blouses are acceptable. Unlined
blouses must have all seams flat-felled. Lining can be lightweight
brown flannel, linen, or jean in the body, and cotton muslin or linen shirting
in the sleeves. Fatigue blouses shall have standard, medium-sized
U.S. infantry buttons. [Similar to EOG/US page 125]
B. U.S. Uniform Coat (“Frock
Coat”) for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers: The federal infantry
coat is acceptable for field wear as dictated by the scenario. Frock
coats shall be of dark blue wool broadcloth material; refer to “Fatigue
Blouses” above for requirements on fabric color. Frock coats should
be lined with a mixture of alpaca, tow or some similar material as chest
padding, polished cotton, and muslin or osnaburg in the sleeves.
Frock coat trim shall be light blue piping or cording; “tape-trim” is not
allowed. Frock coats shall have standard U.S. infantry buttons. Original
frock coats were made with pocket in the skirts only; there should not
be a factory-made pocket in the breast. [similar to EOG/US page 122-123]
C. New York State “Excelsior”
Shell Jacket for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers: These are
acceptable only when appropriate for the scenario. Shell jackets
shall be of 18-ounce dark blue wool broadcloth material (refer to “Fatigue
Blouses” above for requirements on fabric color), lined with cotton or
other period-correct material. Jacket shall have a stand-up collar,
functional epaulettes, and a belt loop on the left side. Jacket shall
include 1/8-inch sky blue piping around the collar, epaulettes, and belt
loop. Jackets should have seven ¾-inch diameter New York State
buttons. [EOG/US page 125].
D. Fatigue Blouse (“Sack
Coat”) for Commissioned Officers: The officer’s sack coat is a loose-fitting
blouse that should generally be longer than the enlisted fatigue blouse
and are acceptable when appropriate for the scenario. Officers’ sack coats
were privately purchased and exhibited variation from one officer to the
next. Sack coats shall be of dark blue wool flannel or broadcloth
material (refer to “Fatigue Blouses for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned
Officers” above for requirements on fabric color). Linings shall
be appropriate to the original used as a pattern. Sack coat may have
a four or five-button front; additional buttons are permissible.
Sack coats generally had at least two outside pockets. Black velvet
collars and cuffs were common and are acceptable on officers’ sack coats.
[EOG/US page 119] While there is documented evidence of officers
on campaign preferring to wear the unadorned sack coats of private soldiers,
the Columbia Rifles desire that an officer’s impression include a jacket
or coat that is of a pattern specific to commissioned rank. Exceptions
would be made on a case-by-case basis if documentation exists for officers
within the specific unit being portrayed.
E. Frock Coat for Commissioned
Officers: Captains and lieutenants’ frock coats shall be single-breasted;
field-grade officers may wear double-breasted coats. Frock coats
shall be of dark blue wool broadcloth material; refer to “Fatigue Blouses
for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers” above for fabric color
requirements. Frock coats should be lined with a mixture of alpaca,
tow, or similar material as chest padding, and polished cotton; sleeves
shall be lined with muslin or osnaburg. Officers are discouraged
from wearing rank insignia on the sleeve unless correct for the portrayal.
Frock coats shall have nine ¾-inch eagle buttons on the front, three
5/8-inch eagle buttons on each cuff, and a four- or six-button tail. Black
velvet collars and cuffs were common and are acceptable on officers’ frock
coats. [EOG/US pages 116-117] Officers shall not wear enlisted frock coats.
F. Shell Jacket for Commissioned
Officers: Many commissioned officers wore shell jackets. If worn
by Members, commissioned officer shell jackets shall be of dark blue wool
broadcloth material; refer to “Fatigue Blouses for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned
Officers” above for fabric color requirements. Shell jacket lining
shall be appropriate to the original used as a pattern. [EOG/US page 115]
1.4 Pants
A. U.S. Army Infantry issue:
Light blue kersey wool with a visible “wale” to the fabric. Pants
shall not be pleated and shall have a watch pocket. For the veteran-soldier
“as issued” look, wear one of the four issue sizes, unaltered. The
cut is very important: many reproduction trousers ride like modern pants,
with the waistband on top of the hip-bones. The proper Civil War
cut is much higher: the waistband should be just under the lower ribs.
Federal trousers also were characterized by a straight outseam (actually
an outdated cut by the fashion standards of 1860), which gives the trouser
legs a period-correct “loose” appearance. Buttons shall be paper-backed
tin. Pants should have a yoke or insert at the back to raise the
waistband approximately 2 to 3 inches above the front of the pants.
Fly shall be of kersey (not of white cotton). Preferred pants are
Schuylkill Arsenal or J.T. Martin (period contractor from New York City)
manufacture. [EOG/US page 127]
1.5 Suspenders/Braces
A. Civilian: Any type of
period civilian model: all-cloth “poor boys”, or adjustable with
tin, brass, or japanned steel buckles. No buckles of nickel-plated
metal.
B. Canvas, drill, tapestry,
embroidered, crocheted, woven, or ticking suspenders are acceptable.
C. Leather ends on suspenders
must be 100 percent natural leather; synthetic substitutes are not allowed.
D. Period-correct suspenders
incorporating elastic components are allowed if they are purchased from
an approved sutler on the Vendor List.
E. Members are advised that
most large, general sutlers’ suspenders are incorrect.
F. Most issue trousers were
furnished with only four suspender buttons; two in the front and two in
the back. If you want to preserve the “unaltered-just-as-issued”
look that was typical of soldiers in the field, use braces with only four
suspension points.
1.6 Drawers
A. Summer-issue drawers
should be canton flannel material (plain cotton is also acceptable, although
canton flannel was most common). Issue drawers can be of the Schuylkill
Arsenal or New York Depot pattern. Issue drawers should have two
or three-piece tin-plated buttons. Ties would be visible at the cuffs,
unless they have been removed. Soldiers also cut the legs off their
issue drawers in warm weather. Drawer cuffs make great gun rags!
B. Civilian drawers may
have bone, wood, mother-of-pearl, or paper backed tin buttons. [EOG/US
page 127]
1.7 Stockings
A. Civilian socks: Particularly
hand-knitted cotton or wool. No athletic socks. Elastic is
not allowed.
B. It is noted that the
vast majority of large, general sutlers do not sell proper socks.
Solid colors of socks can be worn, but should be correct for the period.
C. Issue socks were very
commonly machine knit and, to a lesser extent (which decreased as the war
progressed) hand-knit in one of the following solid colors: off-white,
gray, grayish blue, brown, or blue.
1.8 Shoes
A. U.S. Military-Issue Bootee:
Leather bootee per period specifications. Do not use modern, golden-colored,
oil-tanned “rawhide” boot laces; black leather laces are the best bet.
Bootees should have a slightly squared toe and have either pegged or stitched
soles. Preference should be given to stitched-sole bootees, as it
appears that the majority of shoes issued through the Schuylkill depot
were of stitched-sole construction. The smooth side of the leather
shall be towards the inside of the shoe. The rough side should be
sheered and polished, giving the bootee a smooth appearance. Avoid
shoes with a heavy, suede-like nap. While metal heel plates were
not an issue item, they are recommended in order to prolong the life of
reproduction shoes. Toe plates and hobnails are acceptable as long
as they are of a period pattern. Note that evidence suggests that “brogans”
was not a period term. [EOG/US page 191]
B. Gaiters: Canvas leggings
are expressly not allowed unless documented as correct for the scenario.
Leggings are correct for certain events and therefore their use is condoned
for specific scenarios; Members will be advised in advance of events where
leggings are appropriate. When worn, the only acceptable patterns
are the two documented common “general-issue” versions: either white canvas
with eyelets and leather reinforcements and laces, or all-leather construction
with straps and buckles. Both versions of leggings should have a leather
or canvas heel-strap. There is insufficient evidence to support the
use of leggings with button closures.
C. Be advised that tucking
the trousers (called ‘blousing’) into the socks was (and is) not allowed
in formal formations, such as parade, guard duty, inspections, etc.
D. Boots: Although
this item is under-represented in the ranks, members should use extreme
caution if choosing boots for their impression. Many of the original
soldiers discovered that a poorly-made pair of boots proved to an agonizing
alternative for marching footwear. Reenactors are even more likely
to find this out today, for if anything, quality boots are even more difficult
to find today. In fact, the Federal Army became less tolerant of
straggling due to non-regulation footwear as the war progressed, and orders
were periodically issued to give up boots and draw shoes instead.
Boots, if worn, should me of two-piece top construction (the “full Wellington”)
with sewn or pegged leather soles and a fairly flat heel.
1.9 Waistcoat/Vest
A. Vests were not an army-issue
item. Military-cut vests of dark blue or light blue kersey wool with
brass buttons and cotton or linen back are acceptable, as are any period-correct
style of civilian vest.
B. Vests are not required.
1.10 Overcoat
A. U.S. “Foot” pattern:
Light blue kersey wool, with white cotton or osnaburg lining in the sleeves
and flannel or wool lining in the body (removal of the lining is acceptable),
brass buttons (5-button front, 9-button cape), and preferably with hand-sewn
button holes. Overcoats shall have standard U.S. infantry buttons.
[EOG/US page 129]
B. Overcoats shall be utilized
only when appropriate for the scenario; especially in the second half of
the war, overcoats were generally placed in storage from late April through
mid-September and, as such, are generally not correct for scenarios during
these months.
C. Cavalry greatcoats are
not acceptable.
D. NCO chevrons shall NOT
be displayed on overcoats. While there are original overcoats with
chevrons, this practice is extremely detrimental to the plain, “nondescript”
look that the Columbia Rifles is trying to achieve.
1.11 Miscellaneous Items
A Eyewear: If corrective
lenses are required, contact lenses are preferred. If glasses are
worn, they shall be period-correct. In no event shall eyeglass lenses
be larger than one inch in diameter. Temple-pieces (“bows”) should
not loop around the ears (this was a post-war style). Nose-rest pads
on eyewear are not allowed. Sunglasses are not allowed. No
modern eyewear will is allowed at any time.
B Chevrons: NCOs are encouraged
to wear chevrons commensurate with their rank. No member of the company
shall wear a rank insignia above his official rank unless brevetted by
the company commander. Company NCO chevrons shall be worsted wool;
other chevrons as authorized by the battalion shall conform with the U.S.
Army Regulations relative to material and configuration. NCOs
on campaign were known to wear private’s blouses until ordered to add their
badge of rank: these improvised chevrons were often crude affairs of “tape”
or light-blue wool from pants. “Factory made” chevrons are preferred
but, if approved by the company commander beforehand, such improvised chevrons
are acceptable for campaign scenarios.
C. Insignia for Commissioned
Officers: Insignia of rank should be worn by commissioned officers unless
documentation suggests otherwise for a given scenario and portrayal.
Generally, insignia should be shoulder straps. Straps can be embroidered
or the Smith Patent laminated metal styles. Backing shall be fine
wool or velvet, medium or dark-blue in color. At the discretion of
the officer, either double-border or single-border straps may be used.
Miniature insignia may be worn on officer sack coats. [EOG/US page 175]
D. Sashes: When required
for the scenario and portrayal, orderly sergeants, principal musicians,
and commissioned officers will wear sashes. Sashes for non-commissioned
officers shall be red knitted wool, knotted at both ends, and approximately
nine feet in length. Sashes for commissioned officers may be silk
netting or knitted wool, shall be scarlet (maroon) in color, knotted at
each end, and approximately nine feet in length. [EOG/US page 115 (commissioned
officer’s sash)] Other ranks shall not wear sashes.
2.0 Blankets, Tentage and Waterproofs
3.0 Accoutrements and Camp Equipage
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